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Fitting Front Fenders/Mudguards to Springer Front Ends.

Posted on October 11 2018

Fitting front fenders/mudguards to Springer front ends. So you want to run a fender on your Springer but the front end doesn't have tabs or mounts to do so! These generic type fender mounts are just the ticket however there is some very basic fabrication that needs to be attended to. This particular application is a stock Harley fender being mounted to a late style Meat-Balls Springer. This process is basically the same for any Springer. The factory mounts on the fender look and work best when shortened. When fitting a fender to late style Springers (as we are here) this needs to be done to avoid the mounts and fender fowling with the caliper brake stay arm. There are many ways this can be done. This is just one way. You will need some basic hand tools, electric drill and four inch grinder. Step
  1. Remove the lower half of the brackets with a cutting wheel and de-burr the edges with a flap disc. This makes life a lot easier and helps prevent scratching your front end.
2) You now have 4 tabs which need to be bent inward so they are parallel to the opposite tabs. The masking tape marks the spot where you want to bend the tab and prevents paint damage. Use a 12 inch shifter to gently bend the tabs inward. 3) Fit the fender mounts loosely onto the front fork leg (known as the spring leg) Cover the mounting tabs on the fender with masking tape. You need something to gauge a consistent gap between the front fender and the tyre. We use a length of flexible 25mm thick sponge rubber. Once the fender is sitting in the right position secure it to the tyre with masking tape. Now slide the fender mounts into position on the spring fork. 4) Trace around the fender mounts with a marking pen. Also mark the hole centres . 5) Remove the fender and here's what you now have. 6) Carefully cut the unwanted material from the fender tabs using the cutting disc and de-burr and finish of the edges with the flap disc ready for paint. Now drill the mounting holes using a pilot drill first. Once the mounting hole's have been drilled you can remove the masking tape. If you don't overheat the tabs during this process you can then simply paint the bare edges using a touch up brush and some quality paint like Wattyl's Kill Rust. (not shown) 7) Now you need the hardware to mount the finished fender. For the purpose of this blog we used what we had at hand. Ideally button head bolt's and chrome dome nuts (dome nuts on the outside) give the best results for tyre clearance and looks. 8) Tighten up the fender mounts, mounting hardware and the jobs done!

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